Egypt's
Eastern Desert, at least for now, provides us little in the way of antiquities
for travelers. Pharaonically, there are a few trade routes and other ruins.
However, it is the home to two of Egypt's best known Christian monuments which
include the well known monastery of St. Anthony (Antonios) and perhaps the less
well known Monastery of St. Paul of Thebes.
The Monastery of St. Paul probably dates to the fifth
century and was founded in memory of one of Egypt's greatest saints and
anchorites, who is said to have lived in a cave over which it was built for a
period of some eighty years. We mostly know of his life from the writings of
St. Jerome and his work, Vita Pauli (Life of Paul), which was written between
375 and 380 AD. St. Jerome tell us that, while it may have been St. Anthony who
founded the monastic way of life by inspiring others, Amathas and Macarius, who
were disciples of Anthony, affirm that Paul of Thebes was actually the originator
of the practice.
St. Paul was apparently born to rich parents in the
year 228, However, by the age of sixteen, he had lost his parents. This would
have corresponded with the terrible period of Christian persecution perpetuated
by Decius and Valerian between 249 and 260 AD. After the death of his parents,
Paul renounced his inheritance and consecrated his life to God, eventually
seeking refuge in the wilderness of Egypt's Eastern Desert, where he is said to
have lived until the age of one hundred and thirteen. Living in his cave, and
clothed in a tunic made of plaited palm leaves, tradition holds that a raven
brought a half of a loaf of bread which day for him to eat.
Jerome tells us that Anthony, who was apparently at
least a contemporary of Paul, was told of someone living in the desert that was
holier then he. Hence, he set out to find Paul and, having succeeded, had a
friendly conversation with him. That evening when the Raven came to bring the
saint's nourishment, he came with a whole loaf so that both the holy men might
have substance.
Apparently, Anthony and Paul continued to be friends
for many years. When Paul thought that he was approaching death, he asked
Anthony to fetch the cloak which the patriarch Athanasius had given him.
However, when Anthony arrived at the cave where Paul had lived those many
years, he saw angels carrying the soul of the holy ascetic to heaven. Paul's
body remained in the cave, but two lions approached and dug a grave into which
Anthony placed Paul's body wrapped in the cloak he had fetched. Anthony is said
to have kept Paul's tunic of palm leaves, which he wore to celebrate the
occasions of Easter and Pentecost.
The Monastery of St. Paul (Deir Anba Bula), which has
also been called the Monastery of the Tigers (Deir al-Numur), perhaps because
of its wilderness location, has always been associated with the Monastery of
St. Anthony, usually in a subordinate manner. The first travel narrative we
have of the monastery was provided by Antoninus Martyr, a native of Placentia who
visited the tomb of St. Paul between the years 560 and 570 AD. The first monks
to occupy the monastery may have been Melchite, but they were followed by
Egyptian and Syrian monks. The Syrians may have had a sustained existence at
the monastery, for it appears that they also occupied the monastery during the
first half of the fifteenth century, after which their presence disappears. It
should also be noted that, according to an isolated Ethiopian reference, the
seventieth patriarch of the Coptic Church, Gabriel II (1131-45 AD) was banished
to the monastery for three years.
Like many of Egypt's earliest monasteries, this one
suffered at the hands of Bedouin tribes. One during the year 1484 was
particularly destructive, when many of the monks were killed and their library
was put to the torch. Afterwards, the monastery was rebuilt under the patronage
of Patriarch Gabriel VII, who sent ten monks from the Monastery of the Syrians
(Wadi al-Natrun). Yet, during the second half of the sixteenth century, it was
again attacked and ransacked twice, forcing the monks to finally leave.
The monastery apparently set deserted for the next 119
years, only to be repopulated by a group of monks from the Monastery of St.
Anthony under the patronage of John XVI, who promoted an extensive
reconstruction in 1701.